Audiovox CCS 100 Cruise Control Installation

2008 Suzuki SV650 (naked)


I installed a real automotive cruise control, not a throttle lock, in my SV650 which has less space for the components than any motorcycle on which I've seen it installed. As far as Google knows there is no detailed account of an install on the SV650 naked so I wrote this.


The narrative is in two parts; The Essentials if you already know how to install this cruise control unit and only need to know the particulars for the SV650 naked; and The Full Description.


The Essentials:


Pictures are in Full Description

Servo location – under passenger seat. Only choice. Rotate fuse panel ninety degrees and slip down beside servo.

Servo cable routing – forward on left side, make a right 180 degree turn in front of the front throttle body to end up facing aft. Cable pulls throttle linkage forward on the right side of the two throttle bodies.

Mount for cable end. Make bracket out of part #28. Bend one end after one screw hole, cut off after three more holes, grind end round. See fifth picture under description starting, “I had to make...” (search for the text) and mount to existing right-facing Phillips screw, right side of forward throttle body, just forward of fuel injection rail. Mount cable threaded end to bracket with smaller tube clamp that has two sharp little points bent up from the round part of the metal for a no-slip mount.

Attachment to throttle linkage. Two large chromed rods on right sides of throttle bodies. Pop off lower rod at both ends using lever. Use Throttle Wire Loop, Part #29, to attach to aft end of rod. See eighth picture, under text starting, “I tried using...” Loop is too long unless run through two slots on the aft end of the rod. Also, see ninth and tenth pictures.

Vacuum connections: Use the two throttle balancing ports, base of each throttle body, facing each other. Use one-way check valve on each, run to right side fairing beside passenger seat, T to servo and vacuum reservoir.

Vacuum reservoir: Make from 2” diameter PVC pipe. 7” long fits. Right fairing has more room inside.

Make control switch bracket to fit base of mirror mount below nut.

DIP switches: PPM = 4,000. Set sensitivity to LOW; high horsepower w/ low vehicle weight. Medium is too abrupt. Suggest use ECM on #7 no matter where connected to negative wire from coil to ECM. Other DIPs are standard.

Wiring: ECM is aft of battery. Connect CC blue wire to W/Bl, top wire on ECM upper connector. Use all three wires in brake light connector by fuse panel. Power is gray on brake light side of connector, tan on other side, brake light wire is W/B on both sides, ground is B/W on both sides. VSS is inside headlight housing, pink with white. LED tail lights require SPDT 12v relay. With all wires tapped, not cut, brake light wire goes to relay terminals 86 and 87, ground to relay terminals 85 and 87a, CC unit's purple wire to relay terminal 30.



Full Instructions:


I installed the cruise control in August of 2009 and was aided by countless postings of others on the Internet, which are unfortunately far too numerous to detail. A big thank you to all of you who wrote up accounts of your installations on other motorcycles, particularly those who figured out the relay setup for LED tail lights, how to build a vacuum canister, how to waterproof the driver control pad (the instructions call it a control switch even though it has four switches), and those who posted wiring diagrams. Although the wire colors and locations differ from the Suzuki V-Strom, the extensive postings on that site, notably by johnofchar were very helpful. A special thanks to Ross Fulcher who talked to me for a good while about his installation on his wife's SV, the only other on an SV naked I know of. Thanks guys. I doubt seriously I would have figured it out without you, particularly since some of it is not documented in any instructions.


The installation took me portions of four days. Much of my time was spent gazing into the innards of the motorcycle trying to figure out the best way to do something or where to put something and trying it various ways or testing wires to make sure I had the right ones and trying to do the neatest job I could.


I bought my Cruise Control (CC) kit from Amazon for $89.99 shipped. Using their free shipping it took almost two weeks to arrive. Audiovox has addressed some minor shortcomings and stapled some additional instructions to the booklet. They now set a maximum length of chain allowed to make it impossible to make a loop with full throttle applied manually and CC off. A loop could prevent the throttle from closing. It also informs you that the servo can pull the cable 38-40mm (1.5”). It sets a maximum for slack in the chain (3mm which is just under 1/8”), but states no minimum. I can verify that the unit works fine with the very close to zero slack I have.


My cruise control worked perfectly as soon as I finished.


When reading below, the picture referred to is below the text.


Since space in the SV is so limited I started with servo placement just to make sure it was possible. I removed the side covers under the gas tank, the gas tank itself, air cleaner, front seat, passenger seat, passenger grab bar and removed all bolts and plastic connectors to the frame from the side fairings so I could spread them apart, but I did not separate the fairings at the back end. I found only one place to put the servo, the largest part by far; under the passenger seat. Here it is just sitting there while I ran the cable. I tried to fit the servo in a side fairing, but it is too big around. Putting it under the passenger seat took all of the free space there.

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Cable routing:

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Here's how I connected to the throttle linkage.

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Don't mount yours here (A) without making a bracket to move the mounting point over to the motorcycle's right which is down in this picture. The eyelet attachment to the throttle rod can bind. No other attachment method worked and supplied room for some chain over to the servo cable. The cable cannot be moved right because of interference from the spring assembly behind it (B).

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I had to make a bracket out of kit part 28 to move the cable out so it could be moved aft. I cut it with a hacksaw and ground off the corners. The bracket is tight against component A, but making it any shorter (closer to its mounting screw) causes interference between the bottom of the bolt and the rod underneath.

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Making the bracket allowed me to move the cable forward and clamp to the threaded part of the cable end, rather than the cable body. Others' cables have slipped when securing to the body, so if you attach to it you must wrap it in something to make it tighter. But mounting to the threads allowed me to use the smaller clamp which is much more secure because of the way it is made.

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The smaller clamp has been improved from earlier kits. It now has a small, sharp point on each end extending upward that fits into the threads. This puts an end to any slipping.

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I tried using the looped cables (part #29) slipped over the ball the throttle rod snaps onto, but they were too long to use any chain at all. They met and overlapped the servo cable ball. I needed a shorter loop and ball cable. Here's how I shortened it. I squeezed together the sides of the longer cable's loop and pushed it through one of the two slots in the end of the rod, then down into and through another slot, finally slipping the ball end through the loop to secure it. The ball end of the cable extends in the direction it needs to go; towards the other end.

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I had to flatten the brass fitting clamp that makes the loop with a hammer so it would go through the slots easily.

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Once the cable was in, and after this picture was taken, I minimized slack by squeezing the corners of the cable with pliers to make them more like right angles than curves. Now there is virtually no slack, there's no interference possible, it's straight to the servo cable, and it's the right length.

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This is connected, but not adjusted to remove slack. You can see the vacuum hose touches the chain coupler.

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I needed to shorten the vacuum hose at the 8128 fitting...

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until it looked like this.

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I also thought hose A was too close to the cable. Note position of hose B which attaches to a fitting on the bottom of the air cleaner.

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I moved hose B to the inside of hose A so B hose would hold A hose away from the cable. Now everything was clear of the cable and the air cleaner base.

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DIP SWITCH SETTINGS:


While I was in there I removed the jumper to the left of the DIP switches to tell the unit I had a manual transmission. That enables the disconnect function if the unit sees a rapid rise in rpm which does away with the requirement to install a clutch switch.


These are the white two-position switches in the back end of the big servo and they are tiny! I used my smallest screwdriver to move them, but could have used a pin.


Extensive experimentation by others has come up with the following settings:


# 1 & 2 - Pulses per Mile or PPM = 4000 = #1 ON and #2 OFF. When I did the math I got 3852, so this is a good choice.


#3 - Speed Signal – according to how you hook up; either TACH ONLY (off), or VSS/MAGNETS (on); I used tach only (OFF) because I did not hook up the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) wire. I omitted the VSS hookup to eliminate the minimum speed for engagement so I could use the CC at slower speeds. In TACH ONLY it looks only at engine rpm. I can slow down below 35mph as long as I have the minimum rpm the system looks for (3,000). To hook up to the VSS I would connect the gray wire from the main wiring harness (in a plastic protective tube with a black wire) to the pink wire with a white trace found inside the headlight. It comes from the sensor in the front wheel hub. Note that you do not connect the gray wire from the handlebar control pad to this wire. The black wire will not connect to anything when using VSS. It is for use with the magnetic sensor which is not needed. I didn't cut off this cable in case I wanted to change to VSS some day.  Having done this, I now recommend that you use the VSS hookup.  The speed oscillates too much below 35mph for the cruise control to be very useful and it forces you to use an rpm above 3,000 at all times to use the CC.  I'd rather give up the ability to use it below 35mph and be able to use any gear and rpm when above 35mph.


Sensitivity – I tried Medium and found it to be too abrupt. It engaged with a sharp throttle increase. Switching to Low (light vehicles w/ high horsepower) transformed it into a cruise control as smooth as any car CC I've used except when engaging with the throttle at idle.  Then it jumps, but settles down shortly. So #4 ON, #5 OFF.


Control Switch (the driver control pad you will put on your handlebars) – The supplied pad is a normally OPEN switch. DIP switch #6 OFF.


Tach Source – ECM or COIL. This is a tricky one. Many, many people putting this unit on other motorcycles have set the DIP switch to COIL and hooked up to their wire running from the/a coil to the ECM and had no problems. But one fellow posting on the fjrforum.com here: http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=19890&hl=audiovox%20%20avcc%20%20flaky

had a truly horrible ordeal with spontaneous disengagement that he troubleshot for 14 months, modifying and testing everything, even wiring all connections directly to the battery with no improvements. It took me about four hours just to read about what he went through. It was HORRIBLE. He finally changed DIP switch #7 to ECM

http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=104486&hl=rfulcher

and all his problems disappeared. It turned out that all FJRs acted like that when set to COIL on DIP switch 7 (ON). You will find virtually all installation accounts say this switch belongs in COIL, but I don't think so. I think they are getting away with setting it to COIL... usually. From what I read, I think the COIL setting is for cars without ECMs, but that the electronics in the servo are able to deal with the wrong setting almost all the time. Almost. I set my DIP switch #7 to OFF.


In this picture, DIP switch #4 is set to OFF. I had to change it to ON to eliminate an abrupt throttle jump on engagement and too aggressive throttle adjustments.

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Vacuum connections:


EXTRA PARTS: The vacuum fittings on the SV650, the majority of the Ts in the kit, and the supplied vacuum hose are 1/8” inside diameter (I.D.).


I needed more vacuum hose than the kit supplied. I bought 4' at Advance Auto Parts for $.99/foot plus tax and didn't have much left over. The quality of the hose in the kit was a lot better than the Advance hose.


I used wire wrap not only to protect wires, but vacuum hose, too where I thought it might rub, which is admittedly overkill, but it looks neater to me. Also, I thought the supplied wire wrap was too big so I bought 10' of 3/8” plastic protective wire wrap, item 34753, at Harbor Freight for $2. Also at HF I got item 96024, 9 pieces of heat shrink wrap for $2. I'd not used this stuff before, but most other accounts recommended it. I was not impressed. It took forever to shrink until I gave up on hot air and used a gas fire starter and that scorched it. And it wasn't real tight. I reverted to the old reliable electrical tape with a zip tie securing the loose end, an approach I've found is quick, cheap, effective and lasts forever. The zip tie is the key. Finally, I bought at HF a brass hose barb for my vacuum reservoir for a little over $1. It was bigger than 1/8,” but fit the supplied short piece of vacuum hose in the kit and the supplied adapter brought it down to 1/8”.


Vacuum reservoir: Motorcycles produce less vacuum than cars and I ride in mountains a lot so I wanted plenty of vacuum reserve. I bought one foot of 2” PVC pipe and two caps for less than $3+. I also got another 1/8” vacuum T and a 1/8” union for a couple dollars.


Each of the two throttle bodies on the SV650 has an unused and capped vacuum port. The forward one looks like this when viewed from the left.


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The rear one looks like this when viewed from the right side.

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You need one vacuum check valve for each throttle body. Most installations recommend buying vacuum check valves at NAPA Auto Parts. Be sure to stop at the ATM before you go. A 1/8” vacuum check valve was $6.50 and I needed two (but used three). They also charge $4 for a T fitting like what I got for a buck at my hardware store. I bought five vacuum check valves from usplastic.com, item #64046, for $.95 apiece + shipping at $5. Even if you only wanted one you'd come out ahead buying from them. These check valves are only about an inch across and appear to be great quality. I put one in line after each vacuum port (2). Here's one attached to the aft throttle body.

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Then for no reason other than because I had three more check valves, I put another in the line after they joined. Here's the final assembly, covered with plastic wire protector. Arrows point to vacuum lines and wires, all covered with the same plastic protective covering if they touched anything.

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Making a vacuum reservoir: A reservoir made from 2” diameter pipe about seven inches long fits easily and is as big as anything I've seen used in other installations. I ride mine on uphill inclines as long as two miles and the CC maintains speed well, so it's big enough. Some installations show two brass fittings in the vacuum reservoir, but only one is needed. Just T the vacuum line over to the servo anywhere between the engine and the vacuum reservoir. Do not use Teflon tape on your threads like in the next picture. The tape spins without any threads in the cap (I didn't tap it). I put some silicone caulk on the outside and it seals it well since it's trying to suck air in and the caulk is outside.

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Here's the finished canister before I added the silicone caulk around the hose barb.

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A word of warning: the solvent in PVC cement will quickly saturate the air inside your sealed vacuum reservoir. Sucking on a vacuum line to test the system is great, but not when connected to the reservoir. PVC solvent vapor tastes worse than bad, is poisonous, causes cancer and will turn you into an alien if you inhale it. If you do suck on it, do like Bill Clinton and don't inhale! But even getting the vapor into your mouth is pretty bad.


Pull the right side fairing out to slip the vacuum reservoir into place. I used Velcro in two places on the side of each cap to attach it and prevent rattles.

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Here's what it looks like with the fairing in its normal position.

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I connected a vacuum line to the servo. By then it had become obvious that the fuse panel, which normally slips down onto two bayonets right where the servo now rests, would have to move somewhere else. There is enough slack in the wires to slip it down beside the servo.

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Waterproofing the control pad: It is meant for mounting inside a car so I popped it apart with a screwdriver and sealed the front edges of the rubber pad to the inside of the face with clear silicone caulk. You don't need to use much. Then I put it together and sealed up the wires in the back and the edges of the joint of the front and rear cases. It cleans up easily with a rub of a finger.


I made a bracket for the control pad out of aluminum angle iron 1/16” thick. The first one cracked at the bend as I was almost finished, so 1/16” was not thick enough. I saw where one person made a good looking one out of an inexpensive white plastic closet support bracket from Lowe's. I'll probably paint the back of my bracket, the part facing forward, the color of the plastic and rubber nearby.

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Since you have to hold the throttle while engaging the CC, I mounted the control pad on the left, and angled it towards my thumb.

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The wires from the control pad are not very long. Mine didn't make it very far into the engine compartment. The control pad has a gray wire intended for night time back lighting, but a motorcycle lacks parking lights, so I connected it to the red power wire. That turns on back lighting any time the ignition is on. Until I verified that the system worked I opted to use the supplied plastic connectors rather than solder the wires from the two wire harnesses together.

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I soldered the gray wire to the very back end of the tip of the red wire's prong, intending to slip the prong for both into the connector, but it would not click all the way into the connector, so I soldered it into the red wire just before the prong end, wrapped it with electrical tape and secured the end of the tape with a zip tie. I thought a Posi-Tap might move around in the wind up there.

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Main wiring harness connections. I used Posi-Taps for drawing power from a wire I did not want to cut because they were so highly recommended on other sites. I ordered six direct from the company. You unscrew both ends, lay a wire in the slot across the cap on one end and screw on the body, then insert the second wire through the other cap and screw it into the body and you're done. I connected wires to all three wires coming out of the brake light connector (B); ground, switched 12v power, and brake light.

I mounted the small fuse holder (A) with Velcro to the bracket shown. It barely fits under the passenger grab bar when reinstalled. The fuse draws 12v power through its orange wire (C) when the ignition is on, from the gray wire on the brake light side of connector (B). It is tan on the other side of the connector. From the fuse, electricity goes to the main wiring harness via the fuse's red wire at point (D) after cutting off from the fuse the extra red wire and its attached white plastic connector (E) for use later.

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With the Audiovox cruise control, it is necessary to buy and install a single-pole double throw (SPDT) 12v relay in vehicles with LED brake lights. That's because, as a safety feature, the Audiovox' purple wire, when it is not detecting the brakes lights being turned on to know to disconnect the CC, looks for a ground to make sure the brake light bulbs are intact. If it does not see a ground the CC will not engage at all. The ground normally comes back through the filament of the brake light bulb and through the brake light wire to the purple wire. But with LEDs there is no filament, so we have to provide the purple wire with a ground when the brake lights are off and only when the brakes are off and connect it to the brake lights only when they are on. A relay will do this if we use power from the brake lights to activate it. It wired correctly, it will switch the purple wire between ground and brake light wires when the brakes are applied. Of course I wanted the relay unpowered most of the time so I made purple go to ground when the relay is not energized (brakes off). When the brakes are applied, power in the brake light wire goes to the brake light, but it also activates the relay to change the purple wire from ground to brake light.


The relay mounting point shown in the below picture interferes with the passenger grab bar. When reassembling the motorcycle, I relocated it to the side of the servo using Velcro. I bought my relay part #RLY-351 for $2.40 (and more stuff for other projects) from allelectronics.com for 1/5 the auto parts store price.


Brake light power is picked up from the W/B (white with black trace) wire coming from the brake light connector by Posi-Tap (F) and runs using spare orange wire to relay (G) terminals 86 and 87 (both). All SPDT relay terminals are labeled with the same numbers. Then I cut off the main wiring harness black wire long enough to reach the brake light connector. I Posi-Tapped into the brake light connector's ground wire (black with white trace) at point (H), putting two wires into the Posi-Tap; the main wiring harness black wire (J) I just cut short, and a free end of the excess black wire I just cut off (K). I then connected the other end of the excess black wire (K) to relay terminals 85 and 87a. Finally I connected the main wiring harness purple wire to relay terminal 30.

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I was then left with not-yet-connected blue, green, yellow, and brown wires, plus the double cable of black and gray wires. The blue goes to the coil or ECM. Since it was a dry location, close by, and the right wire was staring at me, I connected the blue at the ECM. It is the white wire with blue trace and is the very top wire in the connector. The blue wire is much too long, but the noise suppressor with the red DO NOT REMOVE tag must stay so I shortened it on both sides of the noise suppressor.

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Now I returned to the white plastic connector I cut off the fused red wire. The kit attaches the connector there because it expects you to connect the two halves of the wiring harness under the dash and pick up power from the same place which is also near the control pad. That's not the case in a motorcycle. I needed the connector up near the ends of the control pad wires. I ran the red, green, yellow, and brown wires from the main wiring harness up to the where the control pad wires ended, leaving the slack back at the servo. If using the VSS, I'd also have run the two-wire black and gray cable up there.


Now I loaded the brown, green, and yellow wires with prongs on the ends into the white plastic connector with the stub of red wire in it. Since I needed the prongs to put into the connector, I did not shorten them. Then I connected the main wiring harness red wire to the stub of red wire already in the connector. Then I got the empty white plastic connector from the parts bag and loaded the red, green, yellow, and brown wires from the control pad into it, making sure I put them in the right side of it, then snapped the two halves together, completing the connections from control pad to servo.

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I tested the connections as instructed in the manual to see if the red LED in the back end of the servo lit up when control pad switches were pressed. Note that although the instructions don't say to, the ON button on the control pad must be pressed before this test will work.


I road tested with full protective gear on and on a long straight stretch just in case. My right wrist is very glad I did this project!